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Silver, the perspective is not straight on as I had the camera near the ground - that makes the line nearest the camera look higher. That is part of the reason the trailing end looks low.
The pictured cast is thrown level (back to front) with the loop parallel to the ground off the right side of the rod. I'll false-cast that way to extend line or to measure my cast, and to amp down power until it just has the energy to unroll (still level and horizontal). On the presentation cast, I give the same power thru the first half (to two-thirds or so) of the stroke then back off the power and let the cast start to stall. The dropping tag end is from the stall. I then continue with what is very near a follow-thru (effecting much like a left reach mend as part of the cast). On a long cast that requires more power, you can shoot some line during the stalling let-off of power - this is necessary with a lot of line in the air (beyond the rod tip) as the follow-thru/mend tends to straighten the loop otherwise.
It's hard to write about this stuff. Just get out and throw horizontal loops of the side of your rod tip. And start amping down the power about half-way thru the cast. You'll see what I mean.
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I've worked a lot on curves in the last few years, as in many spots they are the fish-catchers. I've also had some success with the cork-screw. Best advise I can give there is to delay until the power-snap, and then try to move the rod tip in a one and a half, cork-screwing revolution during the snap. The same rod tip path as the UP curve helps here too, but not as exaggerated.
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But, yes, you're correct - there is debate if I know what I'm doing, or what I'm trying to do. ;)
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Weird, curvy loops,
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Kent
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I know I can just throw it right handed.
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